Tuesday, February 5, 2013

Richard Nicoll Spring 2012




Clean cut tailoring, mysterious hidden seams and an impeccable sense of style is everything to expect from a prestigious French designer, which Richard Nicoll has not failed to deliver on. I'm pretty glad to report that- but also to share this wonderful collection in that we may all bask in it's glory. While looking at the girls is enough to lower even the most confident person's esteem, there are strange eyeliner tails that appear from thin air and pastel everywhere. I think a little pastel is what I need as I mentally prepare for more work tomorrow and in the next few days, while also applying for something else on the side. It's collections that these that fuel my hopes to dress wonderfully and shelter my skin in lovely, decadent textures. I think what was unexpected from Richard Nicoll in 2012 was the vague, classic tailoring but the transformation taken with new pleats and inserts. These were in turn balanced with very modern hemlines and textures- a fresh approach and a new lease on life. 






There are subtle digital prints and variations of one colour in an outfit. The latter is important because it is unified within a shade, but it's not monotonous or boring and instead offers a whole variety of details to catch our eye and intrigue us. The look is very glamorous but for the youthful set and far removed from traditional matching silk suits, pearls and gold chains. I love the redefinition of what is trendy and luxurious Nicoll sets with this high bar of a collection. The colours for this collection; pink and blue can be difficult to express with maturity and with a sense of style. The suburban approach and trap of a mentality would be to instantly think of a baby shower but instead with such a stark white background the shades are broken and disjointed but all being made by the same hand. I can't state this enough: I love the colours for this collection. I've been crushing on some of the pieces shown in this post for a whole now. In particular honorable mentions go out to the perspex dress in pink, although it sounds like a trashy 1990s exploration and failure; what I'm describing is surprisingly well put together and has a refined, modest appeal about it.  Yesterday was one of the best days ever because I found the name of the magnificent maestro who put it all together: thank you Richard Nicoll! 



The shape and story of the collection undergoes a stunning evolution from young adults clasping toy mobile phones to their ears, to sexy and serene frills and sheer materials. What stars constant is the minimalist presentation of models and their make up and the pointed-toe, sling back heels which accentuate the already long legs of the models. These shorty shorts are a surprise when compared to the divine, coat dresses featured just an outfit and an instance later- but they're so cute and super sweet. It's just like Hannah from the HBO series 'Girls' said: "you can really go your entire life wearing shorty shorts and offend none". Or something to that affect. If you know what you want and you choose to flaunt your gorgeous curves than I recommend a cool pair of these icy cold shorts if you can get your hands on them. But I know, deep down that that scenario is probably not the case and it breaks my little brittle heart.



Slowly roses peel away and show a really unexpected persona of the collection in the form of futuristic hoop maxi skirts and apparent seams along the bodice of the dress. I was totally blown away, but I love the mixture of the two and layering of a PVC-like and clear shirt over a normal shirt. Layering two very similar pieces is a trick I've learned after looking at old Australian Vogue editorials and while there is still this strange bout of colder Summer weather I really have to seize the opportunity to try it out for myself. The idea is from about the same time too, or not far off from the conceived ideas of this collection so I'm happy to gorgeous myself on the glorious eye candy the minces very simple, classic basics with cutting edge ideas. It's eclectic more in the vain of structure and silhouettes rather than colour and pattern as I am more accustomed to, but I'm entirely open to the delicious idea if only I could find metallic heels and hoop skirts in the vain of Judy Jetson at my closest charity store. As luck would have it- I can't.



Black and white are dichotomies together as the outfits fade from deep sea blue to smoky but lustrous shades of grey and are compiled with exemplary taste. I usually don't play up the theme/ setting of a runway too much but I think sturdy, clean white doors mirroring that of a manor house. And the white garments didn't become magically invisible, as is the case with many poorer photo shoots or a Hollywood effects studio, Everything could be seen including sharp and immaculate detail which was really pleasing since there does look like an awful lot of effort went into creating such a divine spectacle. I myself would feel terrified if instructed to embellish a sheer material with sequins, and even if I got over the phobia there would be a material mess at the end of the ordeal but it's so magnificent when perfected by Richard Nicoll. It really makes me lust after a decent pair of Prada heels, to wear my hair in curlers and to write with a powder puff at the edge of my pen because the whole scenario screams of a vintage movie fitted in a women's boudoir.







Rose gold lurex embedded in sparkles, a mixture of capped and butterfly sleeves and the metallic sheen all make the colour pink more suave and sophisticated, which is a feat in itself. I always dreamed of owning a dress like that and becoming a real life princess on all important social occasions during high school- the way Hermione Granger shows up at the Yule Ball and becomes a legendary heartbreaker. Of courser that never happened to me in real life, but by last year I had already graduated from high school and all the pomp and circumstance of those ceremonies lost their importance to me. I still carry the wanton need to dress up and feel special when I wear clothing and I believe this spring collection captures that teenage-girl dream but in very minimalist pieces that make wonderful building blocks even for someone who loves eclectic style, such as myself.







The whole affair ended in magnificent frills, there were tops and tunics that more seemed like the tiered frills of a petticoat which I adore- because really who doesn't want to run around looking like a big, delicious cake? And I never dained to do ballet as a child so dressing like one right now is my way of precariously living through the dream of strangely suppressed sexuality. Sorry, you didn't need to hear that. I'm just going through a big transition of favouring colours at the moment and I think I'm drawing the most strength from pink and brown. I am empowered by Neapolitan ice cream. That sounds accurate for me. As the pants become slouchier and flow more, the tops stretch out to gargantuan lengths and it looks like the costume pyjamas of the most elegant goddess you have ever seen. I loved watching the story told through these clothes and finally getting to properly delve into and discover the rich characters set out by Richard Nicoll. Avidly waiting to gobble up his next presentation.








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